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Hi ! I was using a train regulator with both motors plugged on it, so that they would see the same constant tension and therefore the same speed. This one : www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=4548-1#T=S&O={%22iconly%22:0} Sometimes the two motors are in a different wearing state and don't rotate at the same speed without load... You can test this by using a differential, plug one motor to each output shaft of the differential, if the cage turns then the motors aren't synchronized.

Salut, merci ! Tu pourras voir comment la poulie est construite grâce aux instructions de montage réalisées par Tomas Ullrich, qui reproduit le TSD puis en a fait une version GBC : rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-59230/juggleman/gbc-chairlift-detachable-cable-car/#details En complément tu trouveras quelques photos sur ma galerie Flickr : www.flickr.com/photos/152543541@N04/with/50043014973 Bonne construction !

Bonjour, non c'était purement mécanique. Mais il y a beaucoup mieux aujourd'hui comme boîtes de vitesse Lego :)

This model was dismantled long ago, but you'll find pictures of the last iteration to date on my Flickr right here, it may give you some ideas : www.flickr.com/photos/152543541@N04/albums/72157709413444327/with/50043014093

Hi, I used 2mm Nylon cord but the website I bought it from doesn't seem to exist anymore.

Hi, my solution : www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=70931&idColor=11#T=C&C=11 + www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=2868b&name=Electric,%20Train%20Speed%20Regulator%209V&category=%5BElectric,%20Train%5D#T=C + www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=58118&name=Electric,%20Power%20Functions%20Extension%20with%20one%20Light%20Bluish%20Gray%20End%20(length%2050cm)&category=%5BElectric,%20Wire%20&%20Connector%5D#T=C To use with Power Functions motors (no longer sold by Lego unfortunately).

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@@Lego.Seilbahn I sent an e-mail to what I guess is your address. You know, if you don't want to give your e-mail on the Internet, you can create a temporary one, there are websites for that... Avoids guessing...

Hi, if you have an e-mail address I can send you a scan of the schema I made prior to building it. Not very delailed but quite clear. Though, my structure is made so that it can be transported and mounted easily, it may be better for you to build a fixed layout that would come out cheaper and lighter. If this is part of a bigger project you have in mind (maybe a whole mountain, a full ski resort, idk), you should probably get in touch with people who make railway model layouts. There are probably quite a lot around Luzern, and the challenge they're facing is a lot closer to what you seem to want to do. There's one in Ebikon : embl.ch/ Also, there's this Modelleisenbahnclub in Horw : www.modelleisenbahnclub.ch/ Pretty sure that if you ask kindly, they'll be more than happy to show you how the structures are made :)

275 Euros, last offer. It took time to design and build, and the wood itself is quite valuable given today's prices.

I just don't want to bother with that : it's too heavy and big for regular post services, I'd need to pack it and I don't have the materials for that, I can't be sure of how it will be treated by the transporter etc. I'm not doing that, sorry.

Why not, I probably won't use it again. If you can come pick it up here (region of Metz, France), it's yours for 300€. When folded, it probably fits into most compact cars or bigger vehicles, as an example it fits into my Peugeot 207 with backseats down. It's been stored dry for 3 years, not in perfect condition but still very usable.

Hello ! I didn't weigh it but I think it's around 50-60 kg in total. It's 1.60 m high and about 5 m long here. I think it could be easily shrunk down to about 30 kg by opening the pillars and using thinner wood : currently 18mm thick beech wood for the structure (could get down to 15 mm probably) and 10 mm plywood for the slope itself (could get down to 5 mm for those which don't support a station nor a tower).

Danks

Hi, this version was dismantled almost a decade ago so sadly, no instructions available. But Tomas Ullrich made high-quality instructions for his GBC chairlift design based on my latest detachable chairlift, maybe you can adapt this for your needs ? ruclips.net/video/51dyNrAel7E/видео.html&ab_channel=Tom%C3%A1%C5%A1Ullrich ruclips.net/video/wfM21SzyRW4/видео.html&ab_channel=Tom%C3%A1%C5%A1Ullrich Have a nice day :)

@@pg5200 thank you so much!

Thank you ! Tomas did an amazing work with the instructions :) I also had this problem with the tension being high on one side and low on the other. It can be seen at several moments in the video as, it this configuration, I only have motors in the top station (2x PFS-XL), the bottom station being driven by the cable. The easiest answer would probably be to allocate roughly the same power to both stations, either 1 or 2 XL motors in each. Then the rope tension should even out, I tested that and so did Tomas who got good results with 2x PFS-XL in each station. But this requires providing about the same electrical power to both, either by powering both with a single controller (lots of cable length and electrical losses, this was my choice for my older gondola) or by synchronizing two controllers together manually (which I did at Fana'briques 2012, my 1st ever working gondola required 3 people to synchronize for starting or stopping, each managing a controller : rope, bottom station mechanics, top station mechanics. What a mess ^^). If you wanna keep the same motor configuration, I unfortunately have no other answer than "fine tuning" : the rope tension has to be high enough for the distended side not to be too loose and low enough for the motors to still be able to power the chairlift. It can be tricky but I got it to work quite rapidely at the Fana'briques 2019 exhibition during which I filmed this video, the chairlift ran about 20 hours with no major issues (except two rope breakages that I ended up fixing with a candle-powered welding ^^). Sadly I never had enough room at home to have the chairlift mounted somewhat permanently for extensive testings, I only could do that outside which was a hassle to mount and dismount, the exhibition was the last time it ran. Today it's partly dismantled, partly WIP for the next version... Another answer I could bring would be to try to reduce the energy consumption of the station being solely driven by the rope, so that the tension difference decreases. I tried to do this in later attempts by replacing some tyres with a driving chain, with promising results, but didn't get to finish and test it (yet). The power transmission between the rope and the station is far from ideal as well, there is some serious power to be retrieved here, but this requires a complete redesign of the mechanics.

Oh and also : lubrication can help reducing friction and mechanical losses, as well as preserve your parts. I did it for keeping the chairlift running during 20 hours throughout the exhibition week-end but no doubt it helped even a little bit with the reduction of the bottom station power consumption. And now that I think about it : if I reckon correctly, on Tomas' instructions, the mechanics for powering the rope is different from what I originally made. Better or not I don't know, I didn't test his version, but maybe he will have better answers than me on this point :)

Merci Vincent ! Il y a pourtant encore beaucoup de boulot pour arriver à un système vraiment fiable et abouti :)

​@@pg5200 bravo❤❤❤❤❤

Merci ! Etonnante l'usure des pneus, je n'ai rien constaté de tel malgré quelques dizaines d'heures de fonctionnement au total... J'imagine que cela peut avoir plusieurs causes : tendreté du pneu (ceux que j'utilisais étaient vraiment durs), câble abrasif (j'utilisais du fil de nylon tressé en 2mm de diamètre), tension du câble... Cela dit cette solution pour transmettre le mouvement est loin d'être optimale : une piste d'amélioration serait de chercher à réduire la puissance nécessaire pour entraîner les poutres à pneus (j'ai un contour à chaîne en cours de test depuis beaucoup trop longtemps qui donne à peu près satisfaction, voir ici, pas terminé ni optimisé mais fonctionnel : www.flickr.com/photos/152543541@N04/50519536202/in/album-72157709413444327/ ). Ensuite chercher à récupérer le mouvement directement via la grande poulie, il faudra l'accélérer en minimisant les pertes et le jeu et si possible en conservant le mouvement du lorry de tension... Pas simple. Faudrait que je m'y remettre ^^

@@pg5200 Merci beaucoup de ta réponse !

@@pg5200 Une dernière question si tu as la temps, tu pourrais m'envoyer une photo montrant comment sont accroché les garde corps sur tes siège ? Et sinon, les siège ont tendance à dérailler sur le rail courbé, tu aurais une idée ? En tout cas merci pour ton aide.

@@pacomecol Je n'ai que celle-ci : www.flickr.com/photos/152543541@N04/48192081492/in/album-72157709413444327/ Je n'ai pas la possibilité d'en faire d'autres pour le moment. Mais ce système n'est pas optimal de toute façon, je t'encourage à chercher à l'améliorer :) Des déraillements dans le rail courbé, je n'en ai jamais eu... Difficile de t'aider davantage sans voir ton montage :/

@@pg5200 Merci quand même !

Thanks ! Well, I actually used 2mm cable on my latest version (detachable chairlift fanabriques 2019). Works well with the new type of grip, but the old one I was using in this old video has less gripping power and doesn't work very well with a cable that is too thick (it tends to slide on it). Best thickness imho is around 1.5mm :)

@@pg5200 thanks for your quick answer! May you tell me what cable exactly you used for this version? Thanks!

@@mcgameboy2188 Iirc it was a nylon cable sold by Keylite, but it seems that they don't sell it anymore. I think it is more or less the same as that product : www.prozic.com/www2/info_promo_DRISSE-1N_drisses.html

@@mcgameboy2188 Or that : www.la-bs.com/fr/art/drisse-1n_riglift-drisse-polypropylene-pp-1-mm-noire-x-200-m-----5--en-longueur-.htm

@@mcgameboy2188 Yes, 1mm is what I used in this video :)

Elle est simplement montée sur un pivot, elle est libre de se déplacer verticalement. Il y a des cardans pour transmettre le mouvement aux pneus, et c'est le simple poids de la poutre à pneus qui donne l'adhérence nécessaire pour entraîner les pinces :)

@@pg5200 Aah ok merci :)

Merci ! Les galets, c'est la référence 30155 sur BL : www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=30155#T=C

@@pg5200 Merci!

Thanks ! I tried this one-motor configuration, sadly I had trouble making it work because the tension of the rope was getting too low on the untensioned side. I think Antoineddp acheived that though :)

Merci pour les compliments :) Je suis curieux de voir ton travail ! Malheureusement je n'ai presque pas de photos de détail de ces versions-là. Les vues générales ne permettent pas de voir les détails, c'est encore sur les vidéos qu'on voit le mieux la mécanique :/ Pour ce qui est de l'entraînement du câble, j'avais utilisé une roue de motocross : cette jante www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=88517&idColor=85#T=C&C=85 avec ce pneu www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=11957&idColor=11#T=C&C=11 La poulie était montée sur un axe maintenu en haut et en bas (important car toute la tension du câble passe par là). Le rail courbe était construit avec ces pièces : www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3830#T=C + www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3831#T=C et leurs équivalents en plates, et la forme circulaire était maintenue grâce à des rigid hoses de 3mm : www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=75c26#T=C La télécabine est démontée depuis quelques années maintenant :)

@@pg5200 Merci beaucoup de ta réponse rapide. Je vais pouvoir m'y remettre !

@@pg5200 Désolé de te solliciter à nouveau, mais je me demandais si le bloc qui supporte la roue qui entraîne la câble était incliné. Sinon est-ce que la rail incurvé au bout de la station est fixé à l'axe flexible où à l'arc de cercle jaune qui ne bouge pas ?

@@pacomecol Pas de problème :) Le bloc qui supporte la poulie est incliné en effet. L'idée est qu'en entrée de gare, la pince vienne se poser sur le rail, ça nécessite que le câble soit légèrement incliné. Je ne suis pas sûr que ce soit indispensable, mais ça aide. De mémoire, le contour (c'est le nom du rail incurvé) est fixé au 1/4 de cercle jaune immobile, mais ce n'était pas possible de fixer chaque "segment" à la pièce jaune. C'est la raison pour laquelle j'avais utilisé ce "rigid hose", chaque segment était fixé dessus ce qui permettait d'avoir une courbure bien uniforme :) Merci pour les liens ! Je n'ai pas bcp de temps en ce moment mais je regarderai ton travail avec attention :)

@@pg5200 En fait, j'avais aussi construit la version précédente de 2013, mais je voulais m'attaquer à la nouvelle. Et en effet la câble déraillait parfois au débraillage car il restait accroché à la partie supérieure de la pince. Donc réelle amélioration ! :)

Yep :/ I should've prticipated to a few exhibitions that got deleted. But Life will come back eventually :D

Danke schön ! You can build it using the instructions made by Tomas Ullrich (on rebrickable) :)